How Much is my Jewelry Worth?

How much is my jewelry worth?  I’m asked this at every show.  As a gemologist I can identify the gemstones in your jewelry, but to answer the question of value, the right person to ask is an appraiser.  I’ve asked my colleague, Jeanne Hawk, a GIA Graduate Gemologist, Registered MasterValuer and Certified Insurance Appraiser, to be a guest blogger this month:

Establishing and substantiating the value of an item are what appraising is all about. An appraisal is an opinion of value, a well-researched conclusion that is supported by facts which are interpreted from the marketplace. Most jewelry appraisals are done for obtaining insurance coverage. An insurance appraisal is used to determine the retail replacement value of a jewelry item. Other appraisal types include those done to determine fair market value for estate items and items sold for scrap value.

Many of my clients have jewelry of unknown identification or value. I do consultations to identify the gemstones and/or diamonds and metal karatage to determine what you have and whether you should keep it, insure, or scrap it, as is often the case with outdated gold chains. I’ll let you know the market value if you plan to sell it. And if it’s something you want to insure, I can prepare an appraisal for you.

There are six steps involved in the appraisal process as follows: 1) establish the scope of the appraisal, 2) plan the appraisal, 3) collect and analyze the data, 4) apply a valuation approach, 5) set limitations and contingency conditions, and 6) supply the final estimate of value.

At the present time anyone can call oneself a professional jewelry appraiser. However, self-anointing does not confer expertise. The key is education. A gemologist who has undergone formal gemological training, holds a degree or special education in valuation science, and has buying and selling experience either on a wholesale or retail level has the basic prerequisites of an appraiser. The valuation must be done by an individual with suitable qualifications who has no interest (no bias) in the item. Participation in professional appraising organizations is important, as well. It is critical that any jewelry appraisal be developed and written in accordance with the Uniform Standards of Professional Appraisal Practice (USPAP), authorized by Congress as the source of appraisal standards and appraiser qualifications.

I am a certified Gemoljeanne_cropogical Institute of America (GIA) Graduate Gemologist (GG), qualified to accurately identify and grade the gemstones in your jewelry. As a Registered Master Valuer™ and Certified Insurance Appraiser™, I am trained in appraisal valuation techniques and can appropriately value and appraise your jewelry. All appraisal reports are prepared in accordance with USPAP.

At your appraisal appointment, I will clean, identify, measure, weigh, grade, and photograph your jewelry. Most appointments take 30 minutes; longer appointments may be needed for multiple items. You will leave with your jewelry. In 7-10 business days, once I have completed the valuation part of the appraisal, you will receive your appraisal via email. Payment for the appraisal, and any hard copies requested, is due at the time of your appointment. Would you like to learn more about how the value of jewelry is determined? Find out in my FREE report! Call this 24 hour toll free recorded message to request your report. 1-800-579-3932.

Jeanne Hawk Fine Jewelry Appraisals specializes in gem identification, diamond grading, jewelry appraisals, market value estimations, general consultation, and quality assessments. To best meet my clients’ needs, services are provided by appointment only. I can be reached at 831-359-3449 or via email at info@hawkjewelryappraisals.com to schedule an appointment. The office is located at 5521 Scotts Valley Drive, Suite 235, Scotts Valley, CA 95066. The company website is http://www.hawkjewelryappraisals.com. Give me a call or visit my website today!

 

Turritella Agate – A Snail By Any Other Name …

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Fossil turritella agate & garnet necklace (Item FTGFN105)

In last month’s blog I explained that for many gemstone beads, the country of origin may be difficult to determine.  Fossil turritella agate is an exception because it comes exclusively from the Green River Formation in Wyoming, USA.

Turritellas are marine snails (gastropods) with spiral shells.  When fossil snails were found in the Green River Formation, they looked like turritellas and were given that name.  However, it turned out that the snails were in fact an extinct freshwater variety and were renamed Elimia tenera.  By that time, the incorrect name had already become commonly used and the name elimia tenera has never managed to replace the incorrect turritella name.

Turritella fossils are among my favorite fossils to incorporate into my jewelry designs; the fossil snails are creamy to white spirals in a rich brown to almost black matrix.  The polish can be uneven on these stones due to the natural variation in the fossils, but that’s part of what makes each one unique.

The following is directly from http://geology.com/gemstones/turritella/:

“How did Turritella Agate Form?

About 50 million years ago, during the Eocene epoch, the young Rocky Mountains were almost finished growing, and the landscape of what is now parts of Colorado, Utah, and Wyoming consisted of rugged mountains separated by broad intermountain basins. Rains falling on the slopes of these mountains ran off of the land and collected into streams that carried sand, silt, mud, and dissolved materials down into the lakes that occupied the intermountain basins. Over time, these sediments began filling the lakes, and many types of fossils were preserved within them.

Abundant plants and algae grew on the margins of these lakes, providing a perfect habitat and food source for Elimia tenera, the freshwater snail. When the snails died, their shells sank to the bottom of the lake. The snails were so prolific that entire lenses of sediment were composed almost entirely of their shells.

After these layers were buried, groundwater moved through the sediments. Small amounts of microcrystalline silica that were dissolved in the groundwater began to precipitate, possibly in the form of a gel, within the cavities of the snail shells and the empty spaces between them. Over time, the entire mass of fossils was silicified, forming the brown fossiliferous agate (also known as chalcedony) that we know today as Turritella agate.”

References:

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Fossil turritella agate & garnet earrings (Item FTG2)

http://geology.com/gemstones/turritella/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elimia_tenera

Jade – Confused? Here’s Why:

I’m often asked if I make jade jewelry. The answer is yes… and no. That’s because there are two different gemstones that can correctly be called jade. They are similar in hardness and can sometimes be difficult to tell apart visually, but they are very different chemically. Both have been used for thousands of years for tools, decorative carvings and jewelry.

Things that ARE jade:

Nephrite Jade: chemical formula Ca2(Mg,Fe)5(OH)2. Nephrite is found in many countries including along the west coast of North America (sometimes called Canadian or B.C. jade) and also in Australia and New Zealand where it is often used for carved pendants. I’ve most commonly seen it in bright medium and dark greens to almost black but it can also be grayish or brown as well. Nephrite is generally more affordable than jadeite. Here’s an example of one of my recent pieces incorporating nephrite:

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Fossil orthoceras with nephrite jade (item FOSSN104)

Jadeite Jade:  chemical formula NaAlSi2O6. Jadeite is also found in the US and Canada, parts of Europe, and Myanmar. This is the jade that comes in colors including apple-green, white, and pale purple. It often has a mottled appearance. It is available as beads but tends to be very expensive.

Jadeite is commonly treated and has been categorized into 3 types based on this:
Type A – Natural, untreated, may have a surface coating of wax; “true” color.
Type B – Chemically bleached to remove impurities then impregnated with wax or polymers.
Type C – Dyed to enhance color; often chemically bleached and/or impregnated with wax or polymers.

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Aventurine and cultured pearl necklace (item PEGFN102)

Gems that can be confused with jade:
Aventurine: A quartz that gets its green color from inclusions of green chlorite mica. Aventurine is harder and significantly less expensive than either type of jade and has beautiful color. I often use it in my jewelry.

Unfortunately, some gemstones are given  trade names that are descriptive rather than accurate. Some trade names are intended to make a stone sound more expensive or desirable. Here are a few examples with their actual identity:
African Jade: grossular garnet
Australian Jade: chrysoprase
Malaysia Jade: dyed translucent quartz
Mountain Jade: dyed high-grade dolomite marble
New Jade: serpentine
Olive Jade: serpentine

Buyer beware – don’t pay jadeite prices for nephrite, aventurine, or any of the other stones I’ve listed above. Proper gemological testing can easily identify these gemstones.

For more information:
http://www.gia.edu/jade

Nephrite:
http://www.mindat.org/min-2881.html
http://www.gemdat.org/gem-2881.html

Jadeite:
http://www.gemdat.org/gem-2062.html
http://www.mindat.org/min-2062.html

Hematite, Imitation Hematite and Disclosure

Hematite

Hematite is a naturally occurring mineral with the chemical formula Fe2O3. It is mined as an ore of iron and you’ll notice it’s quite heavy because of that iron content. It is commonly metallic steel gray to reddish brown.

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Imitation hematite necklace on natural hematite specimen

Imitation Hematite

You may notice that hematite jewelry is relatively inexpensive compared to other gemstone jewelry. There’s a very good reason for that – almost all hematite beads are imitation. This means that they look like the natural mineral, but they are man-made.  This is also why you’ll see imitation hematite in so many more shapes than natural gemstones (including the rings in the necklace shown above). The larger bead companies that sell on-line are generally very good about providing information on synthetics, imitations and treatments and may use names like “hematine” and “hemalyke” to denote imitation hematite. Magnetic hematite is also an imitation gem. Imitation gemstones are not “bad” – they have a place in the gem world in providing beautiful and generally more affordable versions of rare gemstones. I love the look of hematite and often create and wear imitation hematite jewelry.

Disclosure

In the jewelry industry, ethical dealers tell customers when a gem is imitation, synthetic or has been treated in some way.  This is called disclosure. However, when at bead shows, I’ve learned that some sellers are not as knowledgeable about their products as they should be and do not provide this information.  So, when I buy beads, I ask lots of questions and consider the items carefully before purchasing.  This does not mean that I have not been fooled!  When buying at gem shows, it’s just not possible to have all the necessary equipment to do testing. I generally assume that any “hematite” beads that I buy are imitation and you probably should too!

Thanks for reading!